Kimberley Cruise Diary

13 night Kimberley Classic Adventure – Wyndham to Broome

As the most recent addition to The Great Escape team, I was sent off on a 13 night Kimberley Classic Adventure from Wyndham to Broome to meet the Kimberley Coast and The Great Escape Charter Company up close and personal… tough job I know! These are my diary entries from the absolute trip of a lifetime.

In the beginning… Saturday 21st August 2010- Departure Day!

Ten adventurous guests arrived at the Wyndham port from Kununurra at 5 o’clock to board the beautiful MV Great Escape for a welcomed glass of chilled bubbles and a delicious array of canapés. Greeted by a cheery crew, and excited to be setting off for 14 days of adventure, happy chatter took over the back deck as the sun sank deep into the distance.

The engines started, and MV Great Escape set off into the big blue, steaming overnight while our guests became acquainted over dinner, and speculated about the exciting expedition just begun…

Day 1- The Berkley River

On the first day of the Kimberley Classic Adventure we woke up cruising through the majestic red-rock walled waters of the Berkley River. We stood at the bow of the boat, gazing up in awe of the stunning scenery surrounding us, which was only just the beginning. The super early-risers were already enjoying tea and toast and cappuccinos, watching the landscape change as we steamed on through the river to get to anchor point. Anchor down, cooked breakfast began.

We stepped into three dinghies and shot off down the river to explore an oasis of rocks and foliage beneath the spectacular cliffs. Flying along the river at high speed in the three shining tenders, guests eyes wide and big smiles all around.

As we pulled in under the cliffs and shut the engines off, tranquillity cast a spell over all of us. The stillness was magical, peace not found elsewhere. Streaming sun filtered through shady trees growing miraculously out of nothing but steep rock walls, with fluorescent green moss creeping further down below. Bird life echoed through the gorge and Ospreys and Eagles soared above as we coasted on the top of pristine, fresh, cool waters. Pure relaxation.

Stepping out of the dinghies, it felt like a privilege to tread on the ancient rocks. We hiked 500 metres to a cascading waterfall where we took a refreshing dip and exclaimed nothing but sheer joy. Just miles and miles of open space above and all around, magnificent nature, no sense of time, and not a care in the world.

A natural infinity pool was provided by a deep waterhole overlooking the extension of the Berkley River, with views for miles into the horizon. We rested here a while and enjoyed the outback baths, and those of us basking in the lower swimming hole laughed at the giggles coming from the group of guests playing in the one above.
A bake on the rocks, then back toward the river where we had a quick cast off the cliffs for fish. A complete fishing rooky, I was taught how to cast a line by one of the helpful crew. A bit of a practise run for all of us, and then a short return trip to the boat where the best ever steak sandwiches awaited fresh from the BBQ, for lunch.

We steamed on for an hour and then stopped off for a walk and a swim at Casuarina falls. Seventeen of us in the swimming hole, happy and chatty, while cooling off. One of the guests said about swimming in the real ‘billabong,’ “I never thought I’d ever get to do something like this!”

Back to the boat for a further steam out into the ocean to a great expanse of sea, still the red cliffs hanging in the horizon. We arrived to anchor then jetted across to a nearby beach to end the day at sunset with a bonfire, cold drinks, and a delicious entree. Life couldn’t get any better.

As the last light glowed bright enough to see us back to the boat, 10 weary guests climbed aboard for showers, drinks, and a Sunday roast, while the crew entertained the table with a succession of really bad jokes… minus two, one which really stuck and remained with us for the entire trip.. (“how nice!”), and another about two beans backpacking round Australia… who ended up in Cairns. Yep, that one was mine.

Kimberley Cruising, Day 2… King George Falls!

At 6am everyone had made their way to the bow, watching ahead intently as the vessel moved closer toward the majestic King George Falls. Sheer cliffs just metres from the boat, stretching so far up that from inside looking out, you couldn’t see the sky. We inched in further to get right underneath the waterfall where it poured onto the bow and gave us a refreshing shower. This was a Kimberley icon I had seen in books and brochures, and had marvelled at and wondered about for many years – imagining how it might feel to be there- and here I was right in it, experiencing for myself this magnificent wonder. It was truly breathtaking. I stood mesmerised and captivated by so many things; the sheer size of the walls above us and below us, the magnificence of its design and colour, the cool air whispering all around us, the constant song of the waterfall itself, and the stillness of everything else surrounding us, but for the water falling. It was a sensation and a stunning memory to cherish. Incredible, and awesome, and all I could keep saying was “wooooow!”

Skipper Scotty cleverly navigated us back out and we moved to the second of the two falls. In the early season this would be an experience of another kind yet again. You cannot get in close after the ‘Wet’, only observe it from afar, however I hear that the thunder of the fresh falls is a sound to behold.

The dinghies took us to a walking track leading to the very top of King George Falls. It was super steep and veered round and round the gorge, and the view from the top placed us directly above where we had been in the boat below. A sheer drop so far, that when someone threw a rock over the edge to mark the distance, it was a long wait before we heard the mighty thud below. The views up there the best I’ve seen in the Kimberley, enjoyed from rock pools while we took a refreshing dip.

Morning tea was enjoyed in the dinghies, linked up together, engines off, in the cool shade of the falls. Fresh chocolate cake, fruit salad (not so popular next to the amazing cake), and cold drinks. So we had just walked off breakfast and were back to square one within minutes! Time for another quick stroll.

We took a stop at “King George’s Crack,” a beautiful cool gorge with a fantastic swimming hole at the end and a massive boulder above that made for great bombies- and our adventurous guests were all game.

Back at the boat, everyone had a chance to fish, relax, or take a “challenging” climb to nearby Pang’s waterhole. I took the climbing option, quite possibly the scariest thing I’ve ever done. Yet conquering the cliffs was well worth the reward; a spectacular swimming pool in the rocks, surrounded by more climbing-friendly walls. Chef Nick climbed up and took a flying leap for a massive bombie… we laughed and swam and set off to seek the Bradshaw rock art that Scotty had read about being hidden somewhere in the creek-bed.

Rock hopping like wallabies we divided to search for signs of art. Sure enough, they were found further along. A fascinating location where we wondered about the natives documenting life this way, and for us, even though not the first, to discover it thousands of years later. It was awe-inspiring, and again I felt privileged. Who knows how few people have trodden where I had just been.

Heading back to the boat now out on the ocean, manta rays gave us an entertaining display around the silver dinghy, curious perhaps, or simply playful. We slowed to watch and admire these intriguing creatures, until eventually they tired of us and set off again. Once on board we were joined by a family of not-so-shy tawny nurse sharks circling round the stern giving us a great show.

The day’s adventures ended with an entree of sushi and sashimi made fresh from the catch of the day, and a few drinks on the back deck while the sun sank into the ocean and we steamed off into the distance. We all washed up and gathered round for dinner and grand stories of fishing and climbing. Superb roasted duck, and a drop of wine, before tucking up into bed for a good night’s rest, ahead of another full day of Kimberley Coast exploring.

Day 3 – Vansittart Bay

At 5:30am the skipper rolls up his swag from the outside upper deck, where he’s been sleeping out under the stars the last couple of nights. At 6:30am we’re out in the dinghies and off to trek across the dried-up salt lake at Vansittart Bay. The vast stretch of flat land covered from end to end in white salt crystals resembles the surface of the moon, except for the sight of a lone Brahman bull sitting on the outskirts, unperturbed, but unimpressed.

At the end of the salt-lake lies an ancient plane wreck we have come to inspect, a crashed DC3 that remains from the end of WWII. Then back to the tenders via the beach and a hermit crab race.

Then on board it’s a delicious cooked breakfast; eggs hollandaise with salmon this morning. Yum! After brekkie we head to the coast edge for an extensive touring of Bradshaw rock-art galleries. A family portrait lines one cliff wall. Nearby a crocodile, a kangaroo, and some handprints, mysterious and fantastic. We take a good walk through reeds and rocks and back to the dinghies along the beach. From aboard MV Great Escape we cruise on into lunch time.

After lunch the art appreciation continues with further rock-art tours along the coast of a nearby island. Then the chance to relax on a pristine sandy beach with turquoise blue waters. A game of catch with a tennis ball, simple wholesome fun.

From the beach we went to harvest oysters for our entree. After a quick demonstration each guest took their rock of choice, and began chip chip chipping away to prize the succulent creatures from their hiding places. A half-filled esky later, we returned to our floating restaurant where Nick whipped up four wonderful oyster dishes, natural, Kilpatrick and two more I can’t remember because as a first-time oyster sampler I wasn’t so interested in what choices were available, I simply had to take the opportunity to try one, seeing as I’d caught it fresh myself!
Nick was on fire, and the oyster buffet led to a fish curry buffet for dinner with four fresh variations on offer, complete with freshly toasted pappadums, proudly prepared by sous-chef for the evening, the fabulous Fenzi (formerly deck-hand).

Tired and happy escapees retired to bed.

Day 4 – The Mighty Mitchell River

A super early start today, in the tenders by 6am and out fishing fast. Bets were on for 1) biggest fish, and 2) first caught, and the “friendly” competition had everyone a bit fired up for a sunrise departure. The rules up on the whiteboard read that the comp started at 6am, but I am pretty sure there were dinghies off in the distance by 5:50am. Nevertheless, feathers unruffled, and good sports that we were, our boat -load full of fair players set off on the dot, and within 10 minutes we were all out casting. Another 13 minutes later, and Joy caught a Barra! And a decent sized one too. We were sure that must’ve been the first caught. With high hopes, we continued.
We fished a spectacular number of waterways with great rock ledges where the Barra are known to shelter – apparently they’re lazy and like to hang near the rocks so they don’t have to swim much during tidal movement. Before we set off back to the boat, Joy had caught a second, and the others all had a catch too. I was just unlucky! But I wasn’t disheartened yet, with 10 days still to go!

We found back onboard that Joy’s catch had been superseded by one of the lads by about 5 minutes… as to owning up for leaving early, no chance, denied all round! The biggest fish was yet to be claimed as the day was not yet out, and the catch potential not over. Not until the fat lady sings!

Aboard MV GE we had a good old-fashioned morning tea waiting for us, fresh scones with jam and cream. What a treat!

We all took a walk to Surveyors Creek where we had a swim, and lay about on a rock ledge half submerged in the water, cooling ourselves like crocodiles. Meanwhile, back at the big boat, Bob had been off chasing the Barra again and by the time we arrived back to the boat he was sitting back enjoying an ice-cold beer with a 90 cm silver trophy on ice as well! A massive Barramundi that saw us all through dinner the following night!

The afternoon saw more time for the rest of us to fish, and the final-round of the day’s competition, rewarding the “accumulative length” prize. I’m pretty sure Bob won hands down.

Steaming off into sunset, we sat around the back-deck chatting, and some sat on the bow to watch the sky and horizon changing from shades of pink to mango, and finally to the first signs of ink. Dinner, Dancing with the Stars (the TV show that is, for those devoted), and early to bed for all.

Day 5 – Bigge Island

Breakfast on the back deck this morning before a short ride out to Bigge Island. Here we found Wandjina rock-art, the most impressive I’ve seen so far. Big Wandjina (the “rain spirit” ) faces, crocodiles, and dugongs.
A short walk through rocks to an Aboriginal site where you could feel the penetrating energy lingering on from tribal ceremonies, marked out by circles of rocks and pathways of stone created by our ancient predecessors inhabiting this ancient land.

From there to the boat for a steam until half eleven. Then a walk to Scott’s inlet, a bit of a trek along a tricky Spinifex lined pathway, to reach a very pretty shaded waterhole. A group of bathers sat around in a circle in the depths of the pool looking very much like they were having an outback board-meeting. Telling stories, laughing and relaxing as we cooled off. Skipper Scotty ventured on ahead with Geo-John (we were fortunate enough to have 4 geologists on-board as guests) on the search for more signs of rock-art. Always on the search!

Back to the boat for lunch, a game of scrabble, an afternoon rest, then another chance to fish.

We set off for beer and bubbles at sunset, with a sneaky cheese platter Adzy had surprised us all with, and we cast our lines off the tender or sat on the edge with a hand-line. We caught Mangrove Jack, Threadfin Salmon, decent sized Finger Mark, and a baby shark! Nice photo opp for Caro, but we threw the little one back in.

Back on-board the daily brag-exchange resumed; who had the biggest fish, the most amazing “secret spots,” and “the one that got away”….got to love those fishing stories.

It was an early night for me- all these adventurous days and early starts were tiring… early to bed, early to rise!

Day 6 – The Hunter River

This morning the ladies went walking, and the men went fishing.

Later on at morning tea, the sound of chopper blades starting woke us from our mid-morning post-walking/fishing daze, and we all jumped up to catch a glimpse of the action. It was a real thrill seeing the Jet-Ranger lift off the heli-pad carrying 4 excited guests off to Mitchell Plateau, where they would see it all from above, and have the chance to swim at Mitchell Falls.

While the chopper took flight the rest of us departed in dinghies to explore the waterways of the stunning Hunter River. High rock-walled riverbanks in deep reds, then from the river mouth into a vast expanse of ocean stretching endlessly into a shimmering horizon.

We moored the tenders in the mangroves and took off for a walk to Donkin’s Falls. Some guests stayed below at the first swimming hole and others took the challenging option of a second pool beyond. Hiking over massive boulders to reach the top, it came into sight, but was still quite a distance. We kept bounding and scrambling along the rocks, underneath some, around some too steep, through a pool up to our waists, until finally, the oasis in the desert became a reality in the outback… the most glorious waterhole I’d ever seen. It seemed every day they just kept getting bigger and more beautiful- this one the length of an Olympic size swimming pool, and seemingly as deep as it was wide. We swam across the full length to the waterfall at the end and sat on the rock ledge looking back at how far we’d come. It was a long way, and I have to say I was a bit scared by how deep and dark it was, my heart rate elevated with just a touch of fear, but also thrilled to be there, so tiny in that waterhole surrounded by a towering amphitheatre of rock cliffs.

After the trip back to the boat a well-deserved lunch was enjoyed onboard and then a dip in the spa on the front deck joined by Peta and Rhiannon, drink in hand, for another “this is the life” moment. Others went out to fish. I think we chose the right activity this afternoon.

At 5 o’clock the chopper returned, and now it was our time to take flight, with four of us taking off at sunset to the majestic heights of Manning Peak. As we landed Fenzi got out with his girlfriend Rhiannon, and an eski. There was a plan in place. Erin and I went for a scenic flight over the stunning Hunter River while the sun was sinking into the sea and the colours of the sky were changing to stunning pinks and apricots. It was a magical moment in time. When we returned a quarter of an hour later to pick up the other two at the peak, Fenzi and Rhiannon were engaged! Fenzi had taken Rhiannon to the top of the peak where the views are breathtaking, popped a bottle of Moet, and proposed with a stunning diamond ring. What a well thought out plan. Back onboard we celebrated long into the evening. The “official” engagement party was to be held the following night as a joint celebration with two wedding anniversaries- for John and Peta Libby, and Richard and Janet Tweedy.

Day 7 – The Prince Regent River

These are magical memories. Breathtaking scenery, great company, a heavenly vessel, and exquisite food- the recipe for freedom and relaxation, and incredible joy.

This morning we took a beautiful peaceful walk along Camp Creek. This wilderness to look at is the quintessential Australian landscape that belongs with the poem Waltzing Matilda, Pandanus and Eucalypts growing together, surrounding a waterhole at the bottom of the creek that you would have to say is a real billabong. We walked to the top where Camp Creek falls flows into a great waterhole where we had a long swim here. The contrasting stormy sky made for a dramatic backdrop and we played about happily in the water, laughing and chatting, a common theme running through these days. The boys had a chance to do some bommies off the top. Where there’s higher ground- there’ll be a bommie guaranteed.

Lying on my back, floating in the water and looking up at the blue sky frayed at the edges by stormy clouds blowing in, I felt true pure peace. This land we are exploring, the magical Kimberley Coast, is the ultimate anti-dote to stress, holding all the answers in her ancient landscapes, just as nature always has.

The afternoon onboard was a build up to the party of the decade- the theme; “three weddings and no funeral.” The dress-up box was pulled out and guests set about working on their costumes while Adzy set about making his “famous” punch recipe. A few hours later we re-convened on the back deck to marvel at the stupendous costumes and the extraordinary amount of creativity in each one. Brides, grooms, honeymooners, priests, lures (?), a pink-haired mermaid (what happened to the Skipper?!), a bridesmaid, and a coconut bikini clad chopper pilot, in a grass skirt. Tasteful! The table was set ready for a feast of Barramundi, and meanwhile the huge bowl of punch swimming with liquor-laced fruits was being enjoyed by the festive guests and crew, who were becoming increasingly merry by the minute. Dinner was followed by a decorated triple layered chocolate mud wedding cake, and a round of amusing speeches. The evening ended in story telling on the upper deck while gazing at the stars and laughing until we couldn’t laugh anymore, when it was finally time for bed.

Day 8 – Kings Cascades

Overtired but up & at ‘em!

After last night’s late night celebrations most of us were nursing slightly sore heads, but nothing a freshly brewed latte and a dip in a refreshing waterhole wouldn’t cure.

A morning fishing expedition in yet another changed landscape. Feeling spoilt for scenery in an abundance of visual virtue, joy after joy around every corner. Just as someone says “it doesn’t get any better than this…” it does, and this is what these wilderness adventures are all about- experiencing every facet of this multi-dimensional, extraordinary and surprising land.

A cruise into Kings Cascade falls, a stunning spot to anchor. Just a short step from the tender to the shore where we traipse up the hill to find a swimming place. With the steep walk up into a dry looking rocky hill I was wondering where the site could be, surely some distance from here. This land is surprising though, it holds secrets and treasures just waiting to be found- or perhaps, proud to be hidden, for just around the bend beyond the next, lay a beautiful pool for swimming in, and beyond that, a vast picturesque landscape of cascading rockery, shrubbery, and waterholes. It was another “oasis in the desert” moment. We all jumped in and swam across to the other side. From here we stepped out to explore the heavenly waterfall rock gardens- it was like the most elaborate landscape architect’s dream come true. Miraculous nature, reminding us where all great artists find their inspiration. Jamie Dury would have a field day here. As would the Japanese Zen gardeners.

Trickling waterfalls fell on shallow clear pools lined with lily pads and fluorescent green mosses. Gentle streams flowed through the rock landings, cheery little yellow flowers growing around the edges, and a canopy of lush foliage shaded the pools. It was absolute paradise- an outback Eden found. A few steps up and there was a perfectly formed dip pool in the rocks, as if purposely carved in the landing. Jumping in for a splash around, then hopping out again we went towards the falls above. We all agreed we could have stayed here all day with a picnic, just hanging out in the shallows bathing and admiring the pretty oasis in the middle of the bush. How fortunate we were to just be here. This environment incites a sense of abandon, a freedom, joy, and the kind of childlike innocence inspired only by the purity of nature and vast open space.

Back to the boat, and into the tenders for a trip to the Amphitheatre – a cooling cascade shower under another hidden falls. Also a good wash for the dinghies.

Then back onboard to steam out of the river mouth and into the ocean towards our next anchor point, in preparation for the adventures of tomorrow.

Day 9 – Camden Sound

This morning we took a trip to Sheep Island to have a look at the old Boab with the stories of the first attempted European settlement in the Kimberley.

Then whale watching…wow…wow…wow!! We steamed out to Camden Sound and searched for the dinosaur action- and we found them… a pod of 8 giants moving through the water, spraying, playing, tale-flapping, swimming through the ocean at great speed. It was my first time seeing a whale, and I was blown away by their magnificence. These creatures have a majestic quality that casts a sense of awe and wonder over their audience. They are graceful, playful, and mystical, and as they swam alongside and underneath the boat- they haunted us with their dark shadows. I was stunned and amazed, and just so grateful to witness this spectacular – we felt privileged to up-close in their domain. This was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and one of the most thrilling and awesome ones yet.

Leaving the whales in peace, we went to Llangi Island to visit the petrified rock warriors. These are intriguing rock sculptures created by tides and erosion. Some look like ancient ruins, others look like chess pieces. From here we steamed to Raft Point and Steep Island. Steep Island looks a bit like Ayers Rock sitting in water, it’s quite a sight and particularly stunning at sunset. We walked up Raft Point to see the Wandjina rock-art gallery which was very impressive. Then it was back to the boat for dinner, as we set sail for an hour and a bit to anchor for the night.

Day 10 – Doubtful Bay

We head out for an early fish this morning, and our tender took us to sit directly in front of Steep Island- but a few kilometres from it, and in the distance you couldn’t tell where the sea ended and the sky began- that is how still and flat the ocean was. We cast our rods. It didn’t take long to see we were surrounded by Barramundi- they were jumping out of the water all around. We were surrounded by some pesky sharks too that kept taking off with our live bait and making a mess of our lines. Then, in the distance saw a crocodile coming towards us… swimming ever so slowly toward the tender. Cornered by wildlife! Sharks, crocs, and now above us taking interest in the action, was a Sea Eagle circling. It was, as the crew reminded us every day, another “National Geographic moment.” Extraordinary. After not much luck due to the hungry sharks and a tide that was quickly slipping away, it was in our best interests to move on, lest we be left stranded high and dry on the sand, with a croc at our feet and a Sea Eagle ready to take what was left of us! This sure was what you’d call “adventure tourism!”

We tried a few more fishing spots, and finally (only 9 days later!) I caught my first fish. A little salmon. So little he had to go back in. I did get some photo evidence though to prove that I am not a complete lost cause in the fishing stakes!

Back to the boat, then off again to mud-crab. We set the pots and came back later to find 7 or 8 decent sized crabs for lunchtime eating. At the end of the day we had 14 mud-crabs.

We went out for a refreshing swim at Ruby’s waterfall, a great place for bombies, and a serious mud bath at the bottom of the falls. From a play (and a mud fight) and a relax at Ruby’s, it was back to the boat, and then a few of us went off to explore another island with Scotty. We came back at dusk and made it to the boat just as the last light was closing in on us. We ate another beautiful dinner on the back deck and then all went up to the heli-deck with a chair for an impromptu star-gazing session with Skipper Scotty and his very high-tech star-gazing laser-pointer-stick to point out the constellations and explain the physics and geography of the night sky. Never seen a sky so bright and full of stars- no where else but in the Kimberley. So much happening up there, the twinkling lights and shooting trails only hinting at the life beyond. Up there on the deck out on the open water, it’s a magical perspective. Better than any movie I’ve ever seen – we all agreed it was a great evening.

Day 11 – Montgomerey Reef

This morning at 5:30am whales were breaching beside the boat. We were steaming out towards Montgomerey Reef, and they were swimming beside us.
When we arrived at the reef we anchored for breakfast. Ahead we could see the Reef beginning to empty out with the tide, the water draining off the edges into gullies, like glaciers in the arctic.
We took off up the reef in the tenders for turtle spotting. They were everywhere- swimming beside and underneath the tenders. We went to the top of the reef and came back down through the rapids- a fun ride, and a real change in pace to the calm rivers we had been sailing along the past 11 days. After exploring the reef we head over to a sand-bar beach and had a game of Frisbee in the water. Relaxing and playing about until the tide indicated it was time to move on. We had arrived on a long beach and now only a small mound of sand was sitting above the surface of the water.

From back at the boat we had the choice to fish once more, or enjoy some relaxation time. As I had proven my point and caught a fish, I decided to take the relaxing option. Lunch later on was a feast of fresh fish and mudcrabs which everyone devoured long into the afternoon.

We set off into the late afternoon to make a bonfire on a nearby beach for a night of celebrations, as this was to be our final night in the area, the next night would be steaming home. But there was no time to be sad about it coming to an end as there was still so much to do.

We took trays of delicious cheese and cracker platters and canapés to the beach, armed with eskis full of champagne, wine, and beer. A festive mood had risen again. We built the fire and all sat around enjoying each other’s company and gushing about our adventures and experiences. Every day was like being in a dream and every time we gathered together like this we would reflect on the many highlights of each day.

Back to the boat by moonlight, and boarding in time for dinner. A rowdy boat by now, festivities in full swing. The crew dancing in the galley while drying the dishes, music filling the boat, which then had the guests joining in on the back-deck, until we were all out there dancing around without a care in the world. Dinner was served indoors this evening as we steamed off towards Talbot Bay. The celebrations continued late into the night, until one by one we faded, and found our way to rest, in time for a good sleep before the final day of adventures.

Day 12 – Horizontal Falls

We woke up in the domain of the fabled Horizontal Falls, anchored in Talbot Bay. Rock walls rose steeply out of the ocean on incredible angles- where plates of land had cracked, parted, and sunk into the ocean like shipwrecks. All around us sheets of red rock rose above the waters edge, stained black from the tides, and bleached white from the sun, creating the effect of a three layered cake.

After breakfast and a short tour through Talbot Bay in the tenders, Adzy and Fenzi put their life jackets on, and fitted 4 passengers each on the two tenders with life jackets too. The first two groups left, disappearing behind a corner of sloping rock- and not a sound could be heard after that. We sat on the back deck waiting and watching. Eventually the 2 tenders came flying around the corner again- with guests faces lit up, and then it was our turn. We boarded the dinghies and shot off around the cliff walls, and there we found these fabled Kimberley icons- the Horizontal Falls. The steep rock walls meet together in the middle of the sea- creating an entrance point where the tide empties the contents of the sea into the rivers, and vice versa as the tide reverses. The water rushes in through the gap in the wall creating waves either side as it rushes through, and whirlpools at the base. We shot through the whirlpools where the power of the water was ferocious, and though it felt dangerous, we knew we were in safe hands. We entered through the gap which took us into the bay between the first and second falls. Then we shot back out through the gap, before heading back out to the calmness of Talbot Bay once again. Fantastic to have finally seen these famous waterfalls, and witness another breathtaking moment of Kimberley Coast.

Back onboard The Great Escape we departed the sheltered bay and made our way to some friends of The Great Escape, Phil and Marion, a very interesting couple who live together in a remote corner of the Kimberley that you can only reach by boat. They have a little house they’ve built and a quirky but fabulous sheltered pool they’ve made from a concrete water tank. We stayed a while, had a chat and a swim and then made our way back to the boat.

Then we had actually arrived at the last port of call on our 13 night adventure before heading back to Broome. The last stop on the map was the stunning white sandy Silicone Beach. We bathed and relaxed here soaking up the sun and basking in the tranquility of this outback oasis. There was no more perfect a place or a way to truly relax and enjoy our final hours of tranquility.

We departed the sanctuary of the coast and entered the ocean for the steam home to Broome, filled with the goodness of nature and freedom, fun and adventure. Gifted with endless memories that would remind us we had discovered heaven on earth here in this lifetime.

Back in Broome it was hard to say goodbye, and difficult to face reality… we all agreed it was the trip of a lifetime and a journey we just didn’t want to end! It was the greatest adventure, the greatest experience, and the greatest escape I will ever know.

We are so fortunate to have experienced what few people on earth may even dare to dream of.